Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark, Expat life, Travel, Vesterbro, Vesterbro

Christmas in Tivoli (Part 2)

If you haven’t seen Part 1 of this post, take a look here 🙂 This post, I’ll continue sharing images from Tivoli and show you how they decorated the place!

(photos taken before lockdown – Tivoli is now unfortunately closed)

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Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Culture, Denmark, Home, Sunday Museum, Travel

Grundtvigs Kirke, Copenhagen

This week’s version of a ‘Sunday Museum’ will be this awe inspiring expressionist-style church in Bispejberg, Copenhagen – Grundtvigs Kirke. It’s free to enter, and I arrived maybe a half hour before its closing time, and basically had the whole church to myself. Here are the photos I took…Happy Sunday!

(photos taken before lockdown)

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Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark, Travel, Vesterbro, Vesterbro

Christmas at Tivoli (Part 1)

Tivoli does it again! You’ve seen my posts on Tivoli in the summer (here and here) and for Halloween. Now December in Copenhagen could not be complete without some amazing Christmas themed decorations at Tivoli. Today I’ll share with you some of the delightful images I captured when I visited. In fact, I’ve got so many images I want to share that I’ve split this into two posts – so stay tuned for Part 2!

(photos taken before lockdown – Tivoli is now unfortunately closed)

Lots of cute Christmas ornaments to see…
This has got to be the most dazzling, glittering tree I’ve seen in my life, ha.
Cosy outdoor seating with blankets – you’ll find a surprising amount of Danes sitting outdoors even in the chilly November weather – though of course not now with new restrictions in place.
Golden reflections of all the Christmas lights in the mini lake…
…and more.
I’m not sure how they hooked up so many lights to all these trees, but they looked stunning in person.
The light beams in the background were projecting a heart into the sky.
This was taken inside a lovely cafe that myself and my partner frequent when we go to Tivoli usually…they make some incredible treats!
This tree had some moving lights making it look like dripping icicles. Absolutely magical.
A Christmas light waterfall?! They really thought of everything!
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Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Culture, Denmark, Expat life, Travel

Nyhavn, Copenhagen (Christmas lights edition)

Tomorrow, a partial lockdown begins in Copenhagen, with restaurants, entertainment venues, schools, and workplaces going totally digital. It’s a sad day in the city, but we have been extremely fortunate to have a full autumn without a lockdown! And the city looks beautiful as ever, so lockdown walks are going to be lovely. So, what better way to kick off the Christmas-themed posts than with a dazzling array of Christmas-lights pictures at the beautiful Nyhavn?! It’s been a full half year since I shared photos from this lovely area, which in non-corona times would be absolutely teeming with tourists. This year the area is emptier than usual (but still quite a lot of pedestrians), and the Christmas market was of course cancelled…but it’s still looking lovely with all the decorations that have been put up. Have a look below 🙂

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Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark, Expat life

Bispebjerg Cemetery, Copenhagen

I mentioned in an earlier blogposts that cemeteries are really something else in Copenhagen – they’re akin to parks, well manicured, garden-like, and utilised also for recreational purposes. Simply beautiful green spaces to stroll around in. I’ve shown you the famous Assistens Kierkegaard, which is located in Nørrebro, and now I will share with you Bispebjerg Cemetery, which is further up north from Nørrebro. It’s quite a distance away from the city centre, but if you’re looking for a bit of tranquil within access to the city, this is definitely the spot to visit. I heard it’s lovely in the spring time with cherry blossoms, so I’ll be sure to return next year!

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Denmark, Expat life, Travel

Roskilde, Denmark

I’m still not caught up on all my autumn-themed pictures…but I’ve decided to squeeze in a couple more autumn posts before the Christmas posts kick in 🙂 I took a day trip to Roskilde one weekend a while back and took some photos – the weather really wasn’t great, but there were a couple moments where the sun peeked out. It’s a cute, quiet little city – you can definitely walk around the town centre in a couple of hours. It was totally dead when we arrived (it was a Sunday) but nevertheless it was nice to explore a new place! I loved all the brickwork and the strong reds and yellows in the town surroundings.

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Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark, Travel

Ørestedsparken, Copenhagen

I was going to share a ‘Sunday Museum’ with you today, but it doesn’t feel right to put off sharing these set of photos before December – so here we are. This is definitely one of my favourite parks in the city – it’s on my way to work, so I often stroll through the park if it’s a nice day. It’s absolutely beautiful with the yellows of autumn displayed in full force – take a look below.

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Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark, Expat life, Home

Nordhavn, Copenhagen (Take 2)

I’ve already shared Nordhavn with you before – I went back during golden hour/sundown and wow, it was even more pleasant to walk around than the previous time around. I just love how even the incomplete, construction-site look is part of the aesthetic of the neighbourhood.

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Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Culture, Denmark, Expat life, Personal, Sunday Musings, Uncategorized

Is Denmark the happiest place in the world?

Ever since I started my blog, curious readers have been reaching out to me about Denmark and asking whether Denmark’s reputation for being the ‘happiest’ country on earth is true.

The honest answer to that from a ‘foreigner’s perspective? It really depends on your circumstances, and especially your residency/citizenship status. So brace yourself for a (hopefully) level headed, ‘foreigner’ assessment of this reputation as someone living and working in Denmark.

I’ll give you my personal answer first – yes, I am personally speaking the happiest in Denmark than anywhere else I have been in my adult life. A big part of that is because I have a roof over my head, I secured my dream job during a pandemic, almost tripled my salary in the past year, live in the beautiful Danish capital, find it easy to communicate with people in English, did not have any issues whatsoever with settling in (getting CPR number, bank account, etc), and last but not least basically met the man of my dreams as soon as I arrived in the country. I mean, seriously?? You can’t really go wrong with that!

So how much of the above is specific to Denmark? Well certainly my job is specific to Denmark, and I know that my partner is like a…someone you meet once in a lifetime and got to hold onto type of guy. But of course one should consider that it’s easy to idealise a place with a reputation of being a social utopia. I consider myself extremely fortunate with my current personal circumstances, but the reality is that as an immigrant you will never experience the ‘full’ benefits of being in any country. Even though I get the same healthcare and other social services as citizens, there are some structural obstacles that I would face. It’s common knowledge that for example foreigners have to pay twice or more as much of a down fee if they want to purchase a property in the country, it will be more difficult to arrange loans with banks no matter how stable your income, etc. You could argue some of this is more than fair enough, but that’s just the kind of reality you should consider when moving somewhere – you will still be new to that country, and that comes with its own set of challenges. Furthermore, immigration is actually quite tough in Denmark. Just like the UK, even marriage will not grant you an automatic right to stay in the country. There are many hoops to jump through. Of course, this comes as no surprise to me – immigration policies are an easy way to build in structural discrimination anywhere. Furthermore, I am not eligible like citizens are, to any kind of state welfare funds/benefits (I’m surprised how few people know that foreigners don’t get these kinds of benefits). So being unemployed is not an option for me – I’ll never have a safety net to fall back on. And unfortunately, as with any other country in the world, racism exists in Denmark, among other social issues that I believe ought to be actively tackled – I do not consider Denmark exempt from that rule merely because it is ahead on some issues relative to other places.

With those qualifications in mind, let me outline what I believe Denmark does well:

Hygge. Denmark is undeniably a beautiful country, there’s almost a simplistic and quiet beauty to it – flat, serene, lots of countryside, lots of green landscape, surrounded by sea with several islands. And Copenhagen is really, in my opinion, the epitome of a beautiful life – mix of modern and new architecture, well-kept, organised, bike-friendly, very few cars, clean public swimming all year round, pristine parks, easy to get around, lots of places to eat or cosy up under a blanket at an outdoor cafe. I mean if you’ve been following my blog for a while I think the photos of the city should speak for themselves. I must say this is a huge part of the appeal of living in Copenhagen for me – just what a beautiful life it can be here. For an aesthete like myself Copenhagen is a dream. And yes, ‘hygge’ is a favourite word/concept for many who live in Denmark, especially in wintertime where having a beautiful, cosy time really matters when it gets very dark, bitingly cold, and gloomy. Fleeces, blankets, candles, fairy lights, a warm drink, a seasonal movie, quiet nights in, anything to do with Christmas – that is the vibe! I mean as soon as Halloween was over, Christmas decor got put up around the city and every shop started really pushing for this winter hygge. You’ll hear the word ‘cosy’ a lot in this country because that’s the closest English translation of the hygge concept.

Work/Life balance. This is not a myth – Danes really know how to achieve work/life balance! Of course this also depends on your field/workplace, with some being better or worse than others, so I’ll tell you from my personal experience as someone who works in academia: academia in the UK was no easy feat, and I can almost guarantee that any junior academic working anywhere is doing overtime with little pay, and are super stressed. Well, turns out this is not so much the case in Denmark (or at least my department).

Here, people actually leave the office by 5pm, including myself – shocker. In fact people will wander in at 10am if they so please, instead of keeping a strict schedule (of course this doesn’t apply to certain jobs). People with children leave at 3/4pm even, to pick up their kids from school or daycare. Overtime is just not a thing, and seems frowned upon. There is also a lot of flexibility with work and well-being – it’s understood that if you have a doctor’s appointment or some personal thing you need to attend to, you just go ahead and prioritise that without a need to ‘justify’ why you aren’t at work. Your health and happiness is a priority. And at my workplace at least I feel that people really care about each other and watch out for one another – a kind of ‘community spirit’ where people really lift each other up.

Let’s not forget the fact that people use any excuse to bring ‘cake’ into the office! On that note I just want to point out ‘kage’ means cake in Danish, but it’s used a bit like the word ‘pudding’ in the UK – it just means dessert.

On the flip side, I’ve heard many people say “nothing gets done” or “decided” at work because of the working environment (and on account of everyone being considered equals) or that they struggle to climb the professional ladder in such lax settings. I don’t know how true that is, but from a personal point of view I will say it is very relaxed if you come from a place with a demanding working culture (I come from South Korea for heaven’s sake..). Everyone keeps telling me that I am some kind of workaholic whereas I really feel the opposite – I almost feel too relaxed at work! But maybe that’s part of me unlearning the unhealthy competitive spirit that’s been instilled into me ever since I started university in the UK.

Childcare. I can’t personally speak for this as I don’t have children, but my understanding is that family matters are very much prioritised in Denmark and that daycare/childcare subsidies make it very affordable to have a balanced family/work life.

No student debt. Hello free education! Every Danish student, I believe, can study for free under certain conditions for a fixed amount of time before their education fees actually come out of pocket. There are also student subsidies you receive on top of that. It’s almost so good that I’ve been told people will look for reasons to be a student for longer so they can maximise this. Also, I would do a PhD in Denmark if I could go back – you get an actual salary, not a stipend, and it’s certainly not peanuts! So I would definitely consider/recommend doing tertiary education in Denmark – I’ve also heard that university life is a lot more chilled out compared to the UK 🙂

Overall, Denmark is a place that provides adequate social services to its residents, with a good level of trust between the state and its citizens, and is also a relatively peaceful and small country with nowhere near the kind of tensions you hear about in the news in other places – I’d say that does a lot of the work in terms of why people are happy and content here! Honestly getting used to the ‘Danish’ standard of complaint is an actual thing – like when Danes from the countryside complain of the “traffic” in Copenhagen (meanwhile I’m thinking I live in the countryside compared to places like London) 😉

If you live/have you’ve ever lived in Denmark I’d be curious to hear about what your impressions were or if you agree with my assessment. Hope you have a great day!

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Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark, Expat life, Travel

Frederiksberg Have, Copenhagen (autumn edition)

If you’ve been following my blog for a while, you might remember these amazingly pristine views of Frederiksberg Have over the summer. I am back with another set of photos from the same park – but with autumn colours in full force. Notice how in the featured photo for this blog post you can see a hint of rainbow by the water 🙂

I took these photos back when the sun still set at an hour where it was possible for me to get off work and go to the park to catch the sun going down. Nowadays, with the sun setting at 4pm, this isn’t really possible – not to mention that we haven’t seen much sunlight in the first place, what with all the rain and gloominess. I’m sure glad to have caught this very ephemeral autumn golden hour now…

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